MY GUIDING PHILOSOPHY: EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED, MAINTAIN SOME SORT OF BALANCE,
PUSH HARD AGAINST ADVERSE WINDS, AND DON'T TAKE YOURSELF TOO SERIOUSLY.

Friday, April 7, 2017

Madrid Fusion Manila, 2017

Madrid Fusion is one of the most important gastronomic events in the world and has been celebrated every year since 2003 in Madrid, Spain. 


In 2015, Manila was chosen as the first and only Asian city as a site for Madrid Fusion--for five years--hence the proud title Madrid Fusion Manila!  This is the third year of Madrid Fusion Manila and it took place at the SMX Convention Center from April 6-8.





The theme this year is: "Towards a Sustainable Gastronomic Planet." What does that mean?

"It is the ability to sustain; and the capacity to endure and remain diverse and productive indefinitely. It may also be about gastronomy that not only sustains people, but the fruits of the land, the waters and the culture too".


We were especially proud to be a part of Madrid Fusion Manila this year because Regee's nephew, Enzo Pinga, was displaying the fruits and vegetables from his organic Earth Beat Farm in San Pablo, Laguna.  Enzo is shown above on the left together with his friend from the neighboring Teraoka Farm.

Click on "Read more" below to see more text and photos.

Our day started with a seminar on local food traditions and production.  Our dear friend, Ige Ramos, current President of CHOP, was the keynote speaker, and gave an excellent presentation on the cultural food heritage of the Philippines; the multiple food pathways that contributed to Philippine cuisine; and a convincing argument that just about anything that the West has "discovered" about the preparation and presentation of food was already happening here hundreds of years ago!


As Ige said on another occasion: "....we need to take note of not only the things we received during the  Galleon Trade but also acknowledge our contributions to other cultures.  It is essential we know of the interchange of culture.  It's a discovery of what we gave to other countries".


Ige is a renowned food writer, book designer and food historian but his graphic design skills nearly stole the show as he clicked through 24 of the most ravishing food collage slides that you will ever see!  He has promised to let us have a few slides from his presentation and I will gladly share them with you in a separate blog.  (Oh, it was also his birthday on April 6, the day he gave the seminar.  We believe he is now 36)!


Other speakers included:

Chef Jam Melchor, President of the Philippine Culinary Heritage Movement (PCHM)

The wonderful farmer from Baguio (pictured above), who runs a cooperative of some 50 farms which grow and transport a vast range of fruits and vegetables from the Trinidad Valley to the restaurants of Manila. (Sadly, I was not able to get his name, although I did talk to him after the seminar.  I asked if he had a business card but he just smiled--a silly question to ask a busy farmer)!

Tina Morados (aboveand French husband Andre Papillon, who run the Pamora free-range chicken farm in Bangued, Abra.  The chickens are quality breeds from the Southwest of France, inspired by the Label Rouge of France.


There were also talks on the production and blending of local chocolate (Hiraya) primarily from Davao Sur; coffee farming and coffee drinking (Kape Gwapo), together with tastings of local foods and drinks.

Everyone who spoke was so passionate about their country, its food heritage, its bounty and what they were doing to put the Philippines on the gastronomic map.  

The very fact that Madrid Fusion is in Manila for this 3-day celebration of gastronomy is not a coincidence.  It reflects the fact that the Philippines has been on the gastronomic map for centuries and is now proudly proclaiming its presence and staying power in the 21st century.

I looked up the meaning of "hirayaafter the talk about cacao production, and it means "the fruit of one's dreams, hopes and aspirations".  I would say that the food scene in the Philippines today is definitely in the final realization stage of those hopes, dreams and aspirations!


After the seminar, we wandered around the multiple exhibits which ranged from the Philippine Department of Agriculture (above), to Spanish wine, Spanish and local cheese makers, multiple coconut products and wonderful displays of Philippine fruits and vegetables. You could spend the whole day just looking at exhibits which covered the whole second floor of the giant SMX Convention Center.


We were lucky enough to get passes into the main "Congress" where renowned international and Filipino chefs were giving individual talks about their restaurants and culinary methods.  It was just as fascinating as the "local" seminar that we had attended earlier in the morning; but the vast arena where it took place somewhat dwarfed the speakers.  A lot of international and local journalists were scribbling away in the semi-darkness and were doubtlessly penning their thoughts about the marvels of modern gastronomy.

For me, the real world seems to belong to those hard-working farmers in the great valleys above  Baguio, the chicken rearers in Abra, and the cacao planters in Davao Sur.


Our chefs are amazing but they are the first to sing the praises of those who bring the food to their kitchens.

Given the global movement of rural people to cities, it is beyond wonderful to see young people inspired by the land and everything that it can produce.  Globalization may have been a great and beneficial force in so many different ways but I think the future will lie in getting back to basics and feeding ourselves with food that will sustain us and make us healthy, wealthy and, hopefully,  wiser!

In my humble opinion, that seems to be the message implicit in Madrid Fusion Manila.


About 1PM, we decided to head down to the "Food Tunnel" where there were over 35 individual stands run by local restaurants which highlighted the diversity of the food in the Philippines.  After all, there are 7,100 islands and this gives rise to hundreds of thousands of variations on even the most basic dishes. It was held in yet another vast arena and the term "food fight" came to mind when we first entered.


However, the seminars upstairs were running about one hour behind schedule, so we were able to avoid the huge crowd that swarmed in later.  Here are just a few of the "dishes" we tried.


I say "dishes" in quotes because as far as possible they tried to give you food that could be picked up easily by your fingers (ummm...finger food?) and which, in one bite, could impart the full flavor they wanted you to experience.

Above are heirloom black rice tortilla loaded with roasted Cebu lechon and chico de gallo.  Talk about imparting flavors.  These were seriously delicious and can only be described as the gastronomic equivalent to....(you name it)!


This is the beautifully decorated stand of Villa Escudero which we have visited several times on the border of Tiaong, Quezon and San Pablo, Laguna.  Here we were being proffered a huge tray of sinukmani which is sticky rice cooked in coconut milk with latik (coconut milk curds) on top.

The principal chef at Villa Escudero is Cornelio "Cocoy" Ventura III whom we have met on a number of occasions.  Regee was looking for him but could not find him near the stand.  I found him a little later, as you will see.


This was an interesting way to serve the famous Bicol Express--in little pastry moulds.


We bumped into a lot of people we knew.  Here is Chef Mike Sarthou (a.k.a. Chef Tatung) who is a member of CHOP, runs several restaurants in Manila, including the brand new AGOS in Mall of Asia, and who has just come out with his second book called "Rice to the Occasion".


There was not only food in the Food Tunnel.  I found the Alcohol Fountain!  This was actually a stand that was set up to highlight the different uses of rice--including, it would appear, in the making of cocktails.  Naturally, I wanted to support the rice industry and consented to try out several cocktails which were made by the very interesting young man below--Liquido Maestro Kalel Demetrio--who has just come up with the newest Maharlika line of flavored syrups that are "rich in flavor and goodness".


He is really is a Maestro in his own right and here he is proudly displaying his latest concoction.


While I was trying a cocktail (for two) who did I bump into but Cocoy, of Villa Escudero fame, who was happily ensconced with the Governor of Quezon Province on the right.  I told him that Regee was looking for him.  I took this photo for her in case they did not meet up.  He was all smiles!


After 2PM cocktails, I found this lady busily serving Kape Pan de Lutong (Coffee Biskotso).  She also had some delicious suman (sticky rice in banana leaves). She wanted me to take some home with me for "coffee time" but I am afraid coffee time was well over after Maestro's creations!


These are all the ingredients needed to create a Filipino version of paella.  An incredibly colorful combination, and I only wish they could have cooked it on the spot for us to taste.


After a rather extensive lunch, we went back up to the exhibition hall and wandered around for another several hours looking at all the vegetables and fruits on display, the various farm stands from regions all over the Philippines and buying up some intriguing looking goodies, including something for dinner that night (just in case we were hungry after trying about 35 different kinds of food)!


We had set out about 7AM in the morning and staggered out of the SMX Convention Center at about 4.30PM.  Thank goodness for Uber because they don't allow stray taxis in this area.

In case you want to know more about the three day schedule for Madrid Fusion Manila, here it is!


For the full background on this event, have a look at:  http://madridfusionmanila.com/about

Last but not least, a big THANK YOU to Gwenn Galvez and Cris Abiva for getting us registered and into Madrid Fusion Manila;  and to Enzo for giving us passes on Day 1 to join the main Congress, several talks and demos by international and local chefs, and the amazing "Food Tunnel" lunch. 

2 comments:

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  2. Looks amazing Dad - the colors are spectacular! Love the focus on sustainability. That must have been inspiring.

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